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A Visit to Tlacotalpan |
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It was hot and humid, with the sun so bright that the rainbow colors of the homes sparkled as though competing for your attention. Inside, all was dark and cool. Peeking through windows open to receive any hint of a breeze, you see perfect order, furniture with comfortable embroidered pillows, buffets with china and glass waiting to come out for the next meal, pots with tropical flowers and always, at least one of the famous carved wood rocking chairs made in town. As you stand in front of the homes, you are shaded by the arched portals supported by the rows of evenly spaced columns. Even the tile walkways under your feet are set with geometric designs in front of each home.
Tlacotalpan is a port town on the Rio Papaloapan (Butterfly River) less than 60 miles south of Veracruz. It was founded in the mid-16th century by the Spanish on ancient Toltec territory. Due to several devastating floods and fires, the homes today date from the late 1800's. It was chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 because the "urban layout and architecture of Tlacotalpan represent a fusion of Spanish and Caribbean traditions of exceptional importance and quality."
You quickly learn to do as the townspeople do, stroll slowly and relax, avoid any unnecessary movements! It is steamy and what is the rush anyway? Enjoy the quiet, tranquil atmosphere, rest a bit in the serene plazas under the tall trees, stop for a natural fruit ice, sit and get your shoes shined, try the special milk candy made in town or even the peanut liquor. If you get hungry the best spot is the wonderful restaurant at the Posada Dona LaLa. Linger on the covered patio under the fans and enjoy the cold drinks and fresh seafood. The people are easy to engage in conversation and especially enjoy talking about their town's history and past floods. They all like to show you just how high the water reached on the buildings. They are proud to note that Tlacotalpan was the birthplace of Agustin Lara, an important composer of romantic songs.
As I was ambling about and taking photos, a shy young girl approached and asked if I was going to sell my photos. I told her I was just taking pictures to show my family later when I returned home. She looked disappointed with my answer, so I asked her why she had asked me that question. She said that she hoped I would sell her a photo with her diploma that she just got that day in school! I'm sure you can figure out the end to this anecdote. I sent her and her girlfriend a package with their photos as soon as I returned home.
Click arrows on left and right of photo to see more.
Virgen de la Candelaria
Constructed in 1779, this church is known for a celebration each Jan. 31st - Feb. 9th. Lots of Jarocho music, a costume parade, bulls running in the streets, fireworks and "danzon" dancing in the zocalo at night.
Plaza Zaragoza
The main plaza in town, perfect for a relaxing stroll. Here is a small bandstand decorated with ornamental lyres.
A Proud Day
School is out! And these girls were so proud of the diplomas they just received.
Shade
The temperature is extreme here, any little bit of shade is a respite from the heat. Bicycles are used to get around town.
Strolling
The arches in front of the homes provide a welcome shady spot for everyone, all with vibrant colors.
Old Tlacotalpan
Tlacotalpan has had numerous severe floods. This photo shows a scene from a major one from the late 1960's. We have the original photo that we found on the wall of a shop in town.
Tlacotalpan
This is the same corner in 2004, as was previously seen from the late 1960's. Compare it to the prior black and white flood photo to notice the water level.
Typical
Mexico: color, church and VW bug!
Lunch
Great local shrimp at the Posada Dona Lala.
Papaloapan River
Homes on the river have quick access to the delicious local seafood.
Iglesia de San Cristobal
A second important church in town, this has two towers of different heights.
 Return to "Taxco"
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